Webster Art

James and I went to Squish for 10 days. We did a ton of routes with the highlight being 6 pitches on St. Vitus Dance. I led the crux pitch while James led the long hands to off width below. We had to climb in the shade a lot.

Cool shady crags are Shannon Springs wall to left of Shannon Falls, nice slabby 5.9 there. Octopus garden after 3PM. Crag X and Laughing Crack before 11.

Two weeks later I went to the City of Rocks with V. We started on Windance. I led the right friction start route in my brand new brown Scarpa shoes. Felt very rusty at 5pm after leaving T-town the previous night at 7:30 PM.

Carols Crack gave me trouble. I was having an off day and it felt harder than normal. At the crux I placed a half inch wired nut. Placing the nut made me even more tired. But while climbing above it my tank ran dry and I found myself airborne. V easily caught my fall. I climbed back up and sent. My best lead was the 9 right of Carols. It’s a lovely crack with sweet steep hands and bulging face moves on huge wacos.

I also led the 9 at Lost World. That is such a fantastic move. You step left to grab a side pull jug. Then step up on tippy toe holds. I matched feet then stretched right to the flake. Done! Such beautiful movement with super close bolts through the meat and potatoes.

When I climbed at the gym last week with Terry I was weak. I could barely get up the white 10B that used to be easy. Went downhill from there. Maybe tired from the trip to City? I was only 4 days home. Week later I went today with C L and was strong again. I led the 10B easily and even onsighted a blue 10C. I also easily led another 10+ that has stymied me in the past.

The day prior I rode my unicycle for the first time in 4 months. I got as far as 60 feet and was finding that sweet spot where my weight is balanced between my feet and my saddle. The uni flows at the point. Things fall away and it gets quiet, really magical how that works.

I’d forgotten how to ride, but not how to dismount. I was stepping off in perfect control, maybe a few quick running steps at the worst. It’s such a remarkable sport. So much better than bicycling or skating. As Sue commented, I used to be really good and could ride up to 4 miles. I so, so need to learn the free start. Leaning on fences is causing me endless frustration.

Rose promised Sue to hold my hand on our walk a few days ago. I didn’t trust her after our last walk where she ran off down the block. With these old knees I can’t chase her down. So I walked the bicycle. Rose in one hand, the bike in the other. She was really good and listened like a well trained dog. On the return walk she asked me why I brought the bike if I was just going to walk it.

”I didn’t trust you Rose.”

”But I promised Grandma not to run!”

It seems like such a simple thing, but to see her mind growing those essential logic chains like cause and effect, and the meaning of promises. Watching these grandkids grow up is…I don’t have words. If you know, you know.

I saw a silly article in the WaPo about relationships and the challenges of dating. This was my response:

This article complicates something very simple. Turn off your phones and computers. Pursue excellence in something outside that makes you sweat. You will find your future mate there doing the same thing. Active outside people are fit, beautiful, fun and friendly. For me, my wife, our kids and all of my friends our passion is rock climbing. Once you develop some skill and power you won’t be single for long. I’ve seen it happen over and over. It really is that simple. Now I gotta go pack for my next trip. By the way, my wife and I are 71.