Posted on

Another day, another dollar

I feel guilty for not updating this blog. Also, I need to clear my head, and writing down my thoughts can clear the air.

Sue has been busy with family so I have been off doing my own thing. I climbed with Vladi this weekend in Vantage. We’ve been friends for about 7 years…but we’ve never gone on a climbing trip together, which is odd because we get along splendidly as climbing partners. She is a better sport climber than I, while I am a better crack climber than she. So it was fun pushing each other out of our comfort zones.

I’m still warmed up from my spring break. I’m a month out now, and normally all my skill would be gone, but I’ve climbed every weekend for at least one day since returning from Smith. Regular climbing “keeps the cabbage fresh”.

If you’ve not heard that old saying of mine, it means that climbing skill is like cabbage in the refrigerator: it has a 3 week shelf life. After 3 weeks,  your cabbage is no good, it’s gone.

Speaking of old sayings, I heard a great one liner at the crag. This guy was up on something hard, and his friends were ragging on him, teasing him about his climbing.

This is what I heard him shout down to his friends: “Hey, if I wanted any lip, I would have rattled my zipper!” Everyone just  busted up laughing down on the ledge. Climbing can get very tense sometimes, and humor is great.

I was able to climb all my usual Vantage crack climbs cleanly including:

  • George and Martha
  • Air Guitar
  • Pony Keg
  • Split Beaver (one hang)

In other news, I recently heard about republic wireless. They offer full blown smartphones for as little as $10 a month. That is only two dollars more a month than my two device system. I am very tempted by republic as  it would allow me to simplify my current communication scheme. Currently I have 3 phone numbers: work, wifi, and cell. My cell is very limited minutes ($8) a month prepaid.

Bottom line is I am hard to reach. You have to know which number to call at what time…and my new office does not have reliable wifi. Republic defaults to Sprint if there is no wifi. So in theory, if I jumped onto the Republic Wireless bandwagon, I would have a real cellphone again, with only one number, unlimited voice and texting minutes…and data when there is wifi available. I’m not a data queen, so that could work…

I painted at Nisqually Delta 10 days ago. That was very enjoyable. I need to get down there at high tide on a sunny day and finish that painting, then start another one of the barns reflected in the water. Also, I’m hoping to start a portrait of dad…assuming he will sit for me. That could take a few weeks, and would be  a lot of driving…but the results could be priceless…and he would love to see me.

 

 

 

Posted on

9 days at Smith

Wow, what a great vacation! I drove down to Tieton and hooked up with Aaron and Lolo. We did the usual skill building routines on phone call from satan, moscow, lions jaw and sky chimney. We also did a repeat of my fridays jinx to spiderman combo. But then we took a rest day, forced by rain. I got up the next morning and sent karate clean for the first time ever, after 34 years of trying. Daphne was my belayer, Aaron was the Photographer with my Canon 6D.

most of the reason I got up it was that I found foot rests up near the top. And I nailed all of my jams. There is a deep hidden one under the flake up near the top…plus I had two reds…and that was very helpful.

Lastly, at the traverse, I had a low yellow down in the main crack, with a blue up in the start of the horizontal. I shoved it right to keep the jam clear. Then I dropped down into a straight arm hand traverse. I placed the green blind above me while standing on dime sized slopers…that held fine.

I pulled up and threw for the horsey move, then used my last 2 seconds of power to fall into the stem.

that was ultra cool. I honestly thought I was too old to ever get that.

I chicken’d out on outsiders and grabbed a sling to clip, and I forgot my goood shoes when I led peking, and had to hang twice. Daphne led it clean.

Here are the photos. I’m too lazy to embed them in this wordpress interface.

Work has been unusual. There have been big changes in our program. I’m not ready to talk about them publicly yet. I do expect to have more time to paint in upcoming quarters…that will be an awesome opportunity.